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LEATHERNume leather:Its texture becomes more familiar with wear

Why GANZO uses Nume

GANZO makes frequent use of Nume leather because the stitching becomes clearly evident after the finishing of the notches and also because of the leather’s excellent durability. We also sometimes use yellow yarn in the stitching because it looks good with leather that has been used and exposed to the sun for a long time. In particular, GANZO uses Nume exclusively from European rawhide, and over time we have used a variety of kinds of carefully selected Nume leather.

Nume leather

Nume leather

Nume leather is leather that has not been subjected to dyeing or coating but only to tanning using vegetable tannin. Vegetable tannage is a traditional tanning method that has been in use for a long time, and the tanning process alone can take more than one month.

Because leather tanned in this way is strong, and its texture emerges and becomes more familiar with long use, if well cared for, it can be used continually for decades.

Vegetable tannage Tannin The difference between Vegetable tannage and chrome tanning
Tanning is a treatment that permits cowhide to be worked on without decomposing. By means of the tanning operation, the collagen in the dermal layer of the leather is stabilized, making the leather a material that can be processed into finished goods. Vegetable tannage is a tanning process that uses not chemicals but natural “tannin” extracted from plants. Leather tanned by means of Vegetable tannage has the strength and the innate natural texture of leather. Although the surface can be scratched somewhat easily, the material itself is tough, so it can withstand long use. “Tannin” is a collective term that refers to water-soluble compounds derived from plant parts such as bark.
In addition to being used to tan leather, tannin is also found in food products such as tea, where it provides a strong sense of tartness in the mouth. Tannin has an astringent effect, and when taken for internal use it is said to be effective in stopping diarrhea and intestinal disorders.
In chrome tanning, the tanning agent used is a chrome compound refined from minerals rather than from plants. Because the tanning process with chrome is shorter than that with tannin, today chrome tanning is more common than Vegetable tannage. In the case of chrome-tanned leather, the surface is harder to scratch and the leather is more flexible than is the case with Nume leather. However, precisely because the color and shape of chrome-tanned leather are stable, the leather changes little with use. So if you want to enjoy leather whose texture becomes more evident with use, then we suggest you choose Nume leather.
Vegetable tannage
Tanning is a treatment that permits cowhide to be worked on without decomposing. By means of the tanning operation, the collagen in the dermal layer of the leather is stabilized, making the leather a material that can be processed into finished goods. Vegetable tannage is a tanning process that uses not chemicals but natural “tannin” extracted from plants. Leather tanned by means of Vegetable tannage has the strength and the innate natural texture of leather. Although the surface can be scratched somewhat easily, the material itself is tough, so it can withstand long use.
Tannin
“Tannin” is a collective term that refers to water-soluble compounds derived from plant parts such as bark.
In addition to being used to tan leather, tannin is also found in food products such as tea, where it provides a strong sense of tartness in the mouth. Tannin has an astringent effect, and when taken for internal use it is said to be effective in stopping diarrhea and intestinal disorders.
The difference between Vegetable tannage and chrome tanning
In chrome tanning, the tanning agent used is a chrome compound refined from minerals rather than from plants. Because the tanning process with chrome is shorter than that with tannin, today chrome tanning is more common than Vegetable tannage. In the case of chrome-tanned leather, the surface is harder to scratch and the leather is more flexible than is the case with Nume leather. However, precisely because the color and shape of chrome-tanned leather are stable, the leather changes little with use. So if you want to enjoy leather whose texture becomes more evident with use, then we suggest you choose Nume leather.

A texture and feel that are all your own

Enjoy the feel

With Nume leather, the oil content of the leather seeps slowly out to the surface under the stimulus of ultraviolet light, heat, and friction, giving rise to a distinctive gloss. Even leather that is hard when new becomes, with use, gradually more flexible and easier to use. What is unique about Nume leather is that, even between identical products, the feel of the individual products will come to vary depending on how often and in what way they are used. You will probably become more and more attached to your product as you continue to use it.

TYLER BRÛLÉ Editor in Chief

Many years of use

Because Nume leather has a finer grain than other types of leather, it is very sturdy. If diligently cared for during use, it can be used for decades.
What makes Nume leather so pleasant is that it is strong, and that the longer you use it, the more the texture emerges and becomes familiar.

TYLER BRÛLÉ Editor in Chief

An individual feel

The sheen and color of Nume leather increase the more the leather becomes broken in. As elements like ultraviolet light and hand oil soak in, the color — light at the start — gradually takes on a deep amber hue.

The way the color comes forth varies depending on the owner’s habits and how the item is used, and the difference in feel between individual items is one of the great pleasures of owning Nume leather. There is also the particular joy of “raising” the Nume leather as it matures day after day.

TYLER BRÛLÉ Editor in Chief

A personalized shape that one becomes attached to over time

When Nume leather is brand new, its grain is fine, making it feel hard and stiff. But with use, the fibers of the leather become flexible, and the shape will change little by little depending on how its owner uses it.

The more frequently it is used, the more the item will become flexible and easy to use, and it will naturally take on the shape that is ideal for you. Once you have used a Nume leather product that has taken on the shape you desire, you may never be satisfied with other products again.

Day-to-day care

After use, gently wipe away any dirt or smudges with a soft, dry cloth. Leaving the leather dirty will damage it considerably, so it would be good to get in the habit of attentively removing any dirt you may notice. Care should also be taken to keep it from getting wet.

Since 1917

GANZO, the highest-quality line available anywhere, pursues the concept of “genuine” throughout the entire process, from the selection of materials, to cutting, thinning, sewing and polishing - without compromise. The persistence and energy of takumi (expert workmen) delivers products created by the hands of craftsman who are well-versed in Japanese culture and techniques.

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